From the metropolis
to the tranquil north

The journey is worth it

Perhaps, the main network of invisible threads in Thailand is the domestic flight routes. We arrive at Suvarnabhumi, Bangkok’s international airport, where we immediately get lost in crowds of foreigners from all over the world — the airport handles more than 250 flights a day! Each passerby makes you want to observe endlessly, like characters in a Wes Anderson film, and speculate about their lives and where their journey will continue. It’s an amazing feeling — to find yourself in this vast, noisy, beautiful, and so diverse tapestry of human destinies.

But we are flying further — to Chiang Mai, the largest city in northern Thailand. In Bangkok, we transfer to a flight operated by Bangkok Airways. During this journey, we will meet enthusiasts of sustainable tourism, immerse ourselves in zero-waste projects and local communities, while the palm trees and beaches on the islands will wait until the next vacation.

It all begins at dawn

Invisible threads are not found easily. They must be felt. To keep your heart from being distracted by restless thoughts, visit the sacred place of northern Thailand — the ancient Wat Phra That Doi Suthep temple atop the mountain of the same name. Don’t hesitate to wake up at four in the morning and arrive for the pre-dawn prayer. Moments of weightlessness in the dimness of the temple, golden reflections of the chedi (a type of stupa in Buddhist architecture) emerging from the darkness, and the quiet footsteps of the monks will remain in your heart forever. As soon as dawn breaks, pilgrims and tourists from around the world will flock to the temple, making it harder to find a moment of quiet contemplation.

In the past, Chiang Mai was the center of the medieval Lanna Kingdom, which translates from Thai as «Million Rice Fields». Here, you will often come across the term Lanna in the names of spas, hotels, and restaurants — Thai people respect and do not forget their heritage.

According to legend, a white elephant, carrying a fragment of Buddha’s bone, wandered through the jungles to the Doi Suthep mountain, climbed to the top, paused, trumpeted three times with its trunk, and then fell dead. The ruler of the kingdom saw this as a great omen and ordered a temple and sanctuary to be built on this site.

The thread finds its way

You will be greeted by the hospitable Jinda — the owner of three courtyards. Together with her daughter and son, she runs the family business and is always happy to welcome guests. They are engaged in traditional weaving production and natural dyeing of fabrics, cultivate medicinal herbs, and have recently opened a small restaurant at their organic farm.

The Jinda family is part of the larger community of Ontai, whose life has been transformed thanks to the project initiated by King Rama IX. The monarch recognized the tourism potential here: a village where more than 4,000 artisans and farmers reside could host travelers and sell its products to the retail networks of major cities. The King tasked training the local residents in production standards and marketing and assisting in launching the initial business processes. The idea worked: today, anyone can come here, learn about the properties of medicinal herbs, master the art of weaving, immerse themselves in the incredible warm hues of fabrics and greenery, and simply live in a cozy, hospitable village with wonderful people.

By the way, King Rama IX initiated over 3,000 similar royal projects in various sectors, ranging from agriculture to healthcare.

Upon returning from the village to the city, try the famous Thai massage — an ancient art that will bring relief to your tired body. And afterwards, head to dinner at the legendary Madame Saiyut’s and her daughter, Dr. Sai’s restaurant: in their family restaurant, dishes from all regions of Thailand are served, prepared according to the principles of royal cuisine.